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//DDD// Jen Kao Fall Winter 2012

Written by Lynn Furge, Senior Fashion Editor Photos by Marta Traskevych for www.figphoto.net A foxy approach, polished but cagey, East meets West for nightcaps. These words, from Jen Kao’s collection statement for Fall 2012, could be taken literally with Americana languid pleats and mink coats mixed with Asian inspired floral embroideries, Jen’s girl was all about romance this New York Fashion Week. Opening every show with a poem she spoke to things like capturing all of it in a glass and swallowing stiff. Sexy but demure. Her knitwear was far less present this year, but that didn’t seem to matter because it was replaced by signature prints in silk and more grown up things like perfect coats with pleats and leather accents, a tuxedo jacket, a simple man’s trench and in contrast delicate perfect hombre dyed lace shift dresses and waist corseted gowns.

Kao describes it as “challenging the rigidity of masculinity and the fragility of femininity and I agree but I also see a that struggle of free spirit West Coast meets more rigid East. Maybe it was the accessories that gave me that idea but the silver set Abalone collar tips and opposing Betta Fish Bolo fringes contradicting daytime crowns and python briefcases opposite felt baseball cloches all also contrasted that playfulness you get in Southern California vs. the more serious socialites you see floating from penthouse to plage. Either way, they are all stepping out for the evening with a flirtatious smirk and love on their mind.