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//DDD// VPL by Victoria Bartlett Fall Winter 2012

Written by Lynn Furge, Senior Fashion Editor Photography by Marta Traskevych for www.figphoto.net Entitled “Manipulate” the VPL Fall Winter 2012 collection was all about the body’s geography and its opposing forces from transparent and opaque, to masculine and feminine and beyond. Designer Victoria Bartlett’s inspiration came from Michael Clark’s transgressive choreography of Mmm: the tension between abandon and control, shadow and reflection, fluidity and gravity’s pull.

What that meant for us as an audience were soft weightless materials from silicone, delave and technical gauzes mixed with textured metallic, armor, pleather, girdle, fabrics, stretch twills and felted wools all in monochromatic tints tones and shades of nude except for the occasional pop of grey black white, turmeric and plum. The sueded draped color blocked dresses and tunics were the glue that held the vast collection together and there were the usual bits of body con underpinnings that often provided a pop of color where cut-outs exposed skin. Everything moved, folded, molded and wrapped around the body. The chunky knitwear acted as skeletal works where braids protruded curved melded and revealed hints of skin. Consistent collaborators Jacklyn Mayer whose jewelry line Orly Genger by Jacklyn Mayer, Aran Baik, Wade Jensen, Shoplifter & Edda all put together beautiful one of pieces specifically for the collection and footwear designer LD Tuttle made cool paper bag boots with elastic calf hugging tops to further emphasize the models walk and add to the dance inspiration.